BADENHORST SECATEURS CHENIN BLANC

Drought conditions followed by a cool harvest season produced a stunning version of Adi Badenhorst’s entry-level chenin. He took an unusual approach in 2018, harvesting the fruit over the course of 12 days and adding each day’s fruit to the already-fermenting musts. All of it was whole-bunch pressed, and one-quarter was fermented in old casks, the rest in tanks. Left on its lees for seven months with occasional stirring, the final wine is as deep and rich in flavor as its yellow hue predicts: It moves from waxy apple flavors to mango, wildflower honey and tangerine. It feels all of a piece, bright acidity holding the flavors taut and firm, a large-boned chenin fit for a crown roast of pork.

Bits and pieces of other grapes, mostly Palomino and Colombard, find their way into this old wood-aged, Chenin-based blend. Exotic, yet subtle, with some structure from 15% skin contact and layers of honey, citrus and spice. 2018-23. Alcohol: 13%